Glycolic acid, often associated with high school chemistry experiments, is a powerful ingredient with numerous benefits for your skin. Its potential advantages include addressing clogged pores, acne, and sun damage-induced dark spots.
Suitable for various skin types, glycolic acid offers these benefits without causing excessive irritation when used correctly.
Dermatologists emphasize understanding how this effective exfoliator works and the optimal methods of integration into your skincare routine before making a purchase. Whether in the form of a cleanser, serum, or body wash, glycolic acid can elevate your skincare game when used wisely.
Let’s discuss the key advantages glycolic acid brings to your skin and the intelligent approaches to harnessing its potential.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) chemical compound group.
AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid, dissolve the bonds holding dull, dead cells on the skin’s surface. As a result, these cells gently shed, revealing smoother and brighter skin underneath.
Glycolic acid, with the smallest molecules among AHAs, can effectively penetrate the skin’s surface, making it a potent exfoliant. However, its deeper reach may cause more irritation to sensitive skin compared to larger-molecule AHAs like lactic acid.
It’s important to note the distinction between AHAs and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, which are oil-soluble and can penetrate deeper into pores to unclog them.
What are the benefits of glycolic acid for your skin?
Understanding the science behind glycolic acid reveals its real-world applications and the transformative effects it can have on your skin.
- Smoothes the skin
Glycolic acid serves as the active ingredient in chemical peels and exfoliating toners, initiating the process of shedding dead skin in the outermost layer (stratum corneum). This allows a softer, newer layer of skin to emerge.
The concentration of glycolic acid determines the level of exfoliation. Over-the-counter formulations typically range from 5 to 10%, while dermatologist-administered chemical peels may have concentrations of 25% to 40% or higher. Higher concentrations penetrate the skin more effectively but also carry a higher risk of irritation.
For at-home products, dermatologists recommend sticking to a concentration of 10% or lower to prevent inflammation. This ensures effective pore clearing without excessively stripping the skin.
Note
It’s essential to choose the right concentration of glycolic acid based on your skin’s sensitivity to achieve the desired benefits without causing irritation.
- Clears pores and helps with acne
Glycolic acid, through chemical exfoliation, aids individuals with acne by eliminating dead skin cells and debris that can clog pores, contributing to breakouts.
By sloughing off the top layer of skin, glycolic acid helps banish blemishes and contributes to a clearer complexion.
While glycolic acid is effective, individuals with both breakout-prone and sensitive skin should exercise caution, as it may be too harsh.
Allow breaks between treatments and limit the application of glycolic acid to two or three times a week to minimize potential irritation. Starting with once a week and gradually increasing frequency can help assess skin tolerance.
For those with breakout-prone yet sensitive skin, salicylic acid may be a gentler alternative. Salicylic acid can penetrate deeper into pores to unclog them and has been shown to be less irritating than glycolic acid.
- Reduces hyperpigmentation
Exposure to the sun’s UV rays can lead to hyperpigmentation, resulting in dark spots. Glycolic acid, by exfoliating the skin’s top layer, helps remove excess pigment (melanin), potentially reducing the appearance of dark spots.
Individuals prone to hyperpigmentation, particularly those with medium to dark brown skin tones, may need to exercise caution. High concentrations of glycolic acid could potentially cause inflammation, triggering or worsening hyperpigmentation.
To minimize the risk of irritation and hyperpigmentation, it’s advisable to opt for lower concentrations of glycolic acid, typically ranging from 5 to 10%.
Using glycolic acid at a frequency of one or two times a week is recommended to maintain skin calmness and avoid potential adverse effects.
- Stimulates the production of collagen
Glycolic acid not only removes old and dead skin cells but also stimulates the production of new ones. This dual action contributes to a renewal process where fresh, healthy skin cells replace the removed ones.
The use of glycolic acid has been associated with the stimulation of collagen production. Collagen is a key protein responsible for skin structure and firmness. Studies have demonstrated a significant increase in epidermal thickness (the outermost layer of the skin) with the consistent use of topical glycolic acid.
The overall impact of glycolic acid on skin includes enhanced tone and texture. By encouraging the development of new cells and supporting collagen synthesis, glycolic acid contributes to a smoother, plumper appearance.
Studies have reported a substantial 27% increase in epidermal thickness following six months of using a topical glycolic acid cream. This evidence underscores the transformative effects glycolic acid can have on skin health.
Safe ingredients to combine with glycolic acid
While incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine can deliver numerous benefits, it’s crucial to understand which ingredients play well together for a synergistic effect.
Here’s a guide to safe combinations with glycolic acid:
- Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a hydrating powerhouse. When paired with glycolic acid, which exfoliates and promotes skin renewal, hyaluronic acid helps maintain optimal hydration levels. This combination can result in a balance between exfoliation and moisture retention.
- Peptides
Peptides are amino acid compounds that support collagen production. Combining peptides with glycolic acid can be beneficial for promoting skin firmness and elasticity. This pairing addresses both exfoliation and collagen support for comprehensive skincare.
- Vitamin C
Vitamin C is celebrated for its antioxidant properties and brightening effects. When used alongside glycolic acid, it can enhance the overall radiance of the skin. Incorporating these ingredients into your routine may contribute to a more even complexion.
- Lactic Acid (Fellow AHA)
Combining glycolic acid with lactic acid, another alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), is generally safe. Lactic acid is known for its gentleness, and the two AHAs can complement each other, contributing to smoother skin and addressing surface-level dark spots.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. When used with glycolic acid, it can help mitigate potential irritation and promote a calm, balanced complexion. This combination supports skin health without compromising the exfoliating effects of glycolic acid.
Ingredients you should not combine with glycolic acid
- Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Combining glycolic acid with other alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, may lead to excessive strength and potential irritation.
While lactic acid is an exception among AHAs due to its mild nature, it’s advisable to avoid combining glycolic acid with salicylic acid to prevent irritation.
- Retinol
Using retinol and glycolic acid simultaneously may result in increased sensitivity. These potent actives both contribute to exfoliation and cell turnover, and combining them could lead to irritation, stinging, and flaking.
It’s generally recommended to alternate the use of retinol and glycolic acid on different days.
As with any skincare routine, it’s essential to perform patch tests and introduce new ingredients gradually to monitor your skin’s response.
Consulting with a dermatologist can provide personalized guidance based on your specific skincare needs.
Incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine: tips for optimal results
Adding glycolic acid to your skincare routine requires careful consideration to maximize its benefits while minimizing potential irritation.
Here are key tips for working glycolic acid into your skincare routine:
- Gradual Introduction
Start with a lower frequency, such as once or twice a week, to allow your skin to acclimate to glycolic acid. This gradual introduction helps minimize the risk of irritation and allows your skin to rest between applications.
- Apply Before Bed
Use glycolic acid products in your evening skincare routine rather than in the morning. Glycolic acid can increase sensitivity to UV rays, so applying it before bed reduces the risk of sun exposure.
- Moisturize to Reduce Irritation
Combat potential dryness and irritation by combining glycolic acid with a moisturizer. If you’re using a glycolic acid serum, apply it to cleansed skin before moisturizing. For glycolic acid-containing moisturizers, apply them after a hydrating serum.
- Skin Cycling Approach
Consider a skin cycling approach, using glycolic acid on specific days of the week. This can further reduce the likelihood of overexfoliation and sensitivity. Monitor your skin’s response and adjust the frequency as needed.
- Moisturize After Body Exfoliation
When using glycolic acid body products, moisturize immediately afterward. Opt for lotions or creams containing ceramides to support the skin barrier and maintain hydration.
- Sunscreen Protection
Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30, especially when incorporating glycolic acid into your routine. This helps protect your skin from potential sun damage, considering the increased sensitivity caused by glycolic acid.
- Build Tolerance Over Time
Building tolerance to glycolic acid is a gradual process. If you’re new to using glycolic acid, go slow and monitor how your skin responds. Over time, you may increase the frequency based on your skin’s tolerance.
- Sunburn Alerts
Pay attention to any sunburn alerts on glycolic acid product labels. These warnings indicate increased sensitivity to UV rays, emphasizing the importance of sun protection.
Remember, individual responses to skincare ingredients vary, and patch testing is advisable when introducing new products.
If you have specific skincare concerns or conditions, consulting with a dermatologist can provide personalized guidance tailored to your skin’s needs.